Components On Order

Some new components I’ve got on order, I’m trying to find a way to wirelessly connect devices using RF instead of the more expensive and limited range of WiFi. ✔ 2x nRF24L01+ 2.4GHz Antenna Wireless Transceiver Modules – for wireless comms between my Arduino and Raspberry Pi ✔ HC-SR04 ultrasonic distance sensor – as the one I ordered before never arrived ✔ 2x 433MHz RF transmitter/receiver pairs – alternatives to the RF24’s, I can’t get them working though ✔ Beagle Bone Black – well it was 10% cheaper than anywhere else ✔ Raspberry Pi Camera Board – now I need a mount for it ✔ 2x 8GB MicroSD card – 30MB/sec models for the BBB/Raspbmc ✔ USB ISP and 6-pin adaptor – for programming ATtiny’s without an Arduino.

Nouveau Graphics Driver

I’ve been having some weird crashes on my Debian Sid box over the last couple of days, which seems to be due to an ancient Nvidia bug, reports of which seem to go back to the 295 drivers from 2010, I’m getting problems with the 304 and 325 drivers! [20638.158211] NVRM: GPU at 0000:01:00: GPU-a71588bd-1a44-5686-1d67-fbad1976d394 [20638.158217] NVRM: Xid (0000:01:00): 13, 0001 00000000 0000e495 000007e4 00000000 00000090 [22520.926368] NVRM: GPU at 0000:01:00: GPU-a71588bd-1a44-5686-1d67-fbad1976d394 [22520.

ATtiny85 driving a ULN2803A

I’ve added a Darlington Array to my gearshift project, so that eventually it will drive 3 relays which in turn will drive 3 solenoids to change gear on the motorbike. I love the way the ULN2803A works as its so simple – the inputs on the left go to the same outputs on the right, no code, no SPI, just feed it the outputs from the ATtiny. If you look at the video you can see that’s I’ve also added a 7805 circuit to bring the 12V bike battery or 9V battery I’m using currently down to 5V for the Arduino and relays.

DS1307 RTC With Arduino

Instead of being sheepish and using an RTC shield, I decided I’d knock up an RTC module myself, its incredibly simple anyway – just a 32.768KHz crystal, a DS1307 chip and a 3v coin cell battery. It talks I2C so only two wires to connect to the Arduino (plus two for power): If you’re using another I2C device, you should put a 10k pullup resistor on SDA and SCL, and a 0.

RGB LED With ATtiny85 Part 2

I’ve updated my script and removed the pot from my design, so that now it just fades between random colours on its own, using an LDR to tell if its dark enough to turn on or so light that it should turn itself off as you wouldn’t see the LED anyway: // init vars const int REDPIN = 1; // 85 leg 6 const int GREENPIN = 0; // 85 leg 5 const int BLUEPIN = 4; // 85 leg 3 const int LDR = 3; // 85 leg 2 const int THRESHOLD = 200; int last_time; int red; int green; int blue; int current_red; int current_green; int current_blue; void doFade(int pin, int &val, int &current_val) { // val and current_val are passed as references // so modifying them will actually modify e.