I’ve finally got around to adding British Summer Time detection to my LED matrix clock, I’ve also reduced flash wear and connection time by using the new persistent() method from the WiFi library. I’m still saving the UTC time to the RTC module, just displaying +/- the hour. The LiFePO4 battery is still putting out over 3.1v after 2 months. The final code is below: #include <ESP8266WiFi.h> #include <WiFiUdp.h> #include "LedControl.

I had a cunning plan to use the bottom half of my WIFI Witty board as a programmer for bare ESP-12F boards with those white breakouts, but then found that they rely on the regulator being on the ESP12, the whole of the Witty is 5v. So I figured out that the solder pads on the underside of the breakouts are for a SOT-89 regulator, albeit with a stupid GND-VIN-VOUT pinout, so an LM1117T or suchlike wouldn’t do:

I’ve been working some more on my 8×8 LED matrix clock. I’ve added a DS1307 RTC chip, which has to run from the 5v pin on the NodeMCU and use 10k pullup resistors between 3.3v and the SCL/SDA pins on the NodeMCU and DS1307. I’m using the Adafruit fork of RTCLib as it has better ESP8266 support and uses unixtime. I’m using this chip as I’ve got a load of them and already have a veroboard setup with the coincell and crystal.

I’ve just received one of these Wifi Witty AKA Gizwits ESP-12F boards. The board is in two parts – one part has reset/flash buttons, a CH341 UART and female headers; the other half has USB for power only, a button (which appears to be an input, not reset or flash) and male headers which take up an entire breadboard. Despite having flash/reset buttons I can only seem to program it from the Arduino IDE with the NodeMCU v1.

I’ve been playing with the LedControl library again, this time preparing my 8×8 matrices to be used as a clock, although I’m waiting for two more to arrive from AliExpress. Anyway, its pretty simple to wire them up in series, you basically use the same pinout for connecting to an Arduino as you do for connecting the matrices together – VCC, GND, DIN, CS, CLK. For my sketch, I’d prefer them to be rotated 90 degrees, so that the input/chip was on the bottom and output wires at the top (rather than left to right), so I had to edit the hex a bit.